Right when I started to feel a little settled, Nora and I headed off for a week in Bosnia and Croatia. She is a tour guide, so I got the opportunity to tag along for one of the tours she was leading. We went to Sarajevo and Mostar in Bosnia and then headed for five days on the coast of Croatia in Drvenik. While we were in Croatia we took day trips to different places. One day we went to Trogir, Split, and Makarska. Another day we went to Dubrovnik. And another we went to the island of Korčula. This trip was incredible and eye-opening for me. When I found out that we were headed to Bosnia, and especially Sarajevo, I really didn't know what to expect. I am ashamed to admit it now, but the only time I thought about Bosnia was when I was connecting it to the war in the 1990's with Serbia. I didn't really understand why we would take a tour group there because I couldn't imagine what there was to see besides destroyed buildings. I was incredibly wrong.
We arrived in Sarajevo the first evening, right before dusk. The older part of the city sits in kind of a valley so when you drive to it, you get this beautiful view of the city spread out before you. We went on a walk along the river that runs through the city and saw the Latin Bridge. In 1914, Arch Duke Ferdinand had just driven over this bridge and was headed into the city center when he was assassinated, setting off WW1. It was a pretty incredible feeling to stand in the same place where one of the most significant moments in history took place. We then took some time to walk around the old city center. As we were driving to our hotel, which was located in the newer part of Bosnia, I was surprised to see bright lights and tall buildings. For a minute, I felt like I could have been transplanted back to any city in the USA. It was a little surreal to me because in a place where I expected to see war torn ruins, here was this thriving, vibrant city. I wish I could have spent more time in Sarajevo to really understand both of its parts - the new and old.
The Latin Bridge
View down the street where the Arch Duke was shot
After Sarajevo, we went to Mostar. This is one of the most incredible places I have ever seen. The main attraction is the Stari Most, (Old Bridge) which spans the river that runs through the town. I was already completely captivated by the beauty of the place, and then I learned more about its history and I appreciated it even more. During the war between Bosnia and Serbia in the 1990's Bosnia and Croatia sided against Serbia. After the Bosnian/Serbian conflict ended, Bosnia and Croatia began their own war. Over the course of these two wars, Mostar was pretty much completely destroyed and the Croatians blew up the bridge in 1993 or 1994. At this point, the city was basically rubble and destruction and stayed that way until the early 2000's when UNESCO stepped in. UNESCO gave money to Mostar to rebuild and they started renovating. Today the bridge is completely rebuilt as well as most of the city. Some buildings are left in ruins because no one knows who owns them and so they can't be renovated.
Building left over from the wars in Mostar
The Stari Most today
I did not expect to be impressed by Bosnia. In the beginning of this trip, I thought of it as a stopping point on the way to Croatia, but it blew me away. Seeing the buildings that were still destroyed in the cities and in the countryside really made me realize how incredibly lucky Americans are to not have fought a recent war actually in our country. I can't imagine driving down the streets of Stevensville and seeing the remnants of war - but that is what it is like in Bosnia when you step outside of the touristy areas. Being able to see how Bosnia has overcome its history and begun recovering was humbling and amazing.
When we arrived in Croatia and got to our room for the rest of the week, I opened the doors to the balcony and saw this:
And that is pretty much how the rest of the week went. Croatia is incredibly beautiful. My favorite thing did while there was go to Dubrovnik and take a walk along the top of the city walls that encompass the old part of the city. Even though it was SO HOT, the views were worth it. Dubrovnik is famous for its red roofs and every building in the old city has one. Some even still have their original roofs, but others have been repaired and replaced. The following pictures are all from Croatia and are just a scant few of what I actually took!
View from highway out of the bus window
Makarska
Dubrovnik from the city wall looking out
Dubrovnik from the city wall looking over the old part of the city
On the way home from the island of Korcula