Sunday, November 10, 2013

Geneva, Switzerland

The rest of my Fall Break was spent in Geneva, Switzerland. I had originally planned to go to Florence, Italy, but that didn’t work out, so I chose Geneva. Now I am happy that Florence didn’t happen because I probably wouldn’t have made it to Switzerland at all this year if it had. I guess I had so many other places on my list that I wanted to visit and Switzerland wasn’t one of them – but it should have been.

View of The Alps from Mount Salève
 
Riding down in the cable car from Mount Salève

View of Geneva from Mount Salève

 I went to Geneva alone, which at first I was nervous about, but it ended up being really great. It was nice being able to follow my own schedule instead of a tour groups or compromising with people. Although I am happy my friends will be here for some other big trips this year, I did enjoy the solo traveler life. J I got the opportunity to meet some really nice people from all over the world and spent one day sight-seeing with a girl I met there.

Geneva has lots to see and do: the Jet d’Eau, Mount Salève the Flower Clock, St. Peter’s Cathedral, the UN, the Red Cross, Old Town Geneva, chocolate shops, and of course the lake itself and the surrounding mountains. I was definitely busy all three of the days I spent there. One of my favorite things I did was take the cable car up to the top of Mount Salève. The view from the top looking down on Geneva is stunning. Another thing I really enjoyed was visiting the UN headquarters in Geneva. It was pretty cool to be in a building where such important decisions get made. We also got to spend some time in the old League of Nations (the precursor to the UN) which the sometimes-History teacher in me really enjoyed. I love the fact that wherever I travel, I always find something that I will be able to bring back to my classroom in the US. Of course just walking around Geneva is beautiful – the lake, the mountains, the Jet d’Eau, and Old Town are all so picturesque.
 
The Jet d'Eau


The Broken Chair outside the UN

Original League of Nations building

The emblem for the League of Nations is still on the doors in the building

 My first day in Geneva was an adjustment. Living in a small Hungarian town and fresh off a trip through some rural areas of Romania, did not prepare me for the bustling streets, diversity, and prices of Geneva. Everything in Geneva is expensive…even a basic McDonald’s meal would set you back at least $15. Geneva is also an incredibly diverse city (like most big cities in the world), but the area where I live in Hungary is not diverse at all, so it was really great to talk to people who were from outside my town and Hungary. I stayed in a hostel while I was there and met people from England, Tunisia, Spain, India (but she had been living in France for 1 year), and of course other American travelers. It was also different to be in crowds. The biggest crowd I had been in before that was the hallway at school. J
 
 
 
View of the city from the boat tour

During the archeological exploration underneath St. Peter's Cathedral part of the original floor of the original baptistery was discovered. This floor was actually heated with pipes of hot air running underneath it

Close up of the floor and the individual tiles

One of the things about Geneva that struck me the most was the many different languages spoken there. Switzerland actually has four official languages: French, German, Italian, and Romansh and it depends on where you are in the country what language people speak. Because Geneva borders France, people there speak French. However, everyone also speaks English. Sometimes I would be sitting next to a group of people and one minute they would be conversing in French and then they would switch to English. What really impressed me were the people doing the jobs that might not typically be associated with an ability to speak several languages, like waitressing, selling/taking tickets, security, etc because they all were multilingual as well. In fact, they could not have performed their jobs without being able to speak several languages pretty fluently. When I was in line at the UN I was behind a French couple and a Spanish family and the ticket lady switched effortlessly from French, to Spanish, then to English for me. It became very obvious to me that an incredibly small number of Americans, who do those same jobs in the US, would be able to do them in Europe because we are limited by being monolingual. Throughout my whole stay in Geneva, I was uncomfortably aware of and embarrassed by, my inability to speak another language.  It really made me wish I had taken learning French and Spanish in school a lot more seriously. However, I was proud of the fact that enough of my middle school French came back to me by the end of the trip that I could say basic pleasantries (Bonjour, Merci, Merci Beaucoup, Bonne Nuit, etc.), understand spoken numbers (important when using public transportation) and get the basic gist of what signs/information cards were saying. So often I hear my students at home say “why do I need to learn to speak another language? Everyone speaks English.” Before this trip, I never felt like I had an acceptable answer to this because it is technically pretty true. Now however, I can tell them from first-hand experience that one day they will be traveling in another country and be very grateful for that time spent in the language classroom.
 
Looking out over Lake Geneva

Shore of Lake Geneva
 
 

Wednesday, November 6, 2013

Dracula's Homeland (but no Dracula)

We started out Fall Break by taking a 3 day trip to Transylvania, an area in Romania. Since pretty much everyone was on Fall Break some of the other people who came here on various Fulbrights got to come too which was a lot of fun. I have to admit, Romania surprised me. Every time I thought I knew what to expect from a place, Romania proved me wrong, which was wonderful.

Some of the highlights of the trip included going to Kalotaszeg for their Rosehip Festival. Rosehip is a fruit and the people of the town make homemade jam when the fruit ripens. We were there for the opening of the festival so we got to see the opening ceremonies, which was neat. The school age kids in the town dressed up in traditional clothes and performed several traditional dances.  The people of the town were also selling their homemade goods: fabrics, table clothes, pillow cases, ornaments, food, etc. Some of the things they made were really beautiful.

Women making the rosehip jam by hand

Stirring the final product

For those of you that had no idea what a rosehip was (like me) this is what they are
 
The following movies are all of the children dancing during the opening ceremonies of the festival
 

 
 
 


Another great thing we did was go to the Torda Salt Mine on the 2nd day. I honestly wasn’t sure what to expect from a salt mine and wasn’t prepared to be impressed, which I was! This particular salt mine hasn’t been in operation for many years because the company that owns it had financial difficulties, but the tour guide said there was enough salt left in the mine to supply the entire world for several years!  We choose to use the stairs to get down into the mine itself which was definitely the right choice! It was neat to see how the salt was accumulating on the wood and other materials put there by humans. The main room of the salt mine was incredible. It was huge and the walls were beautiful. The veins of salt running through the ground looked just like expensive granite. They had converted some of the area into an amphitheater because the acoustics in the mine were good for classical music. We also got to rent a row boat for 20 minutes and row around the little lake at the bottom of the mine. It was neat because we could get right next to the walls.

The Fulbright group outside the Salt Mine


Fulbright group and our tour "mom and dad"

The walls of the salt mine
 
After the salt mine we went to Torocko which is famous for some its original houses from the 19th century. The village sits in a valley between mountains so the views are incredible.
 



One of the original houses of the town
 
The cities of Romania surprised me the most. When I thought of Transylvania, I thought more of the countryside and not really about the cities, so I was really surprised how beautiful they were. We visited two cities: Kolozsvár and Nagyvarad. Both of them were gorgeous with big, old, ornate buildings and nice city centers. Kolozsvár has a slight edge because it just had a charm that I didn’t feel in Nagyvarad.

Kolozsvár  

The area where we had lunch in Kolozsvár

Kolozsvár

Kolozsvár

Kolozsvár

Nagyvarad

Nagyvarad

The theater in Nagyvarad

Nagyvarad
 
Before I went to Transylvania, people told me it was like stepping back in time 50 years. They were wrong. It was more like 75-100 in some areas of the countryside. I saw more horse drawn wagons in three days then I have seen in my whole life. I saw people harvesting big fields of crops by hand and using a wheelbarrow to transport the crops out of the field. I saw people using scyths to cut corns stalks and then rake them up to heat their house in the winter and feed their animals. I saw cattle wandering freely in pastures and horses staked out on long ropes to graze. Most of the houses had some sort of garden where the family grew fresh produce and a farm area where they raised animals to eat. Many houses also built trellises on which they grew grape vines. It looked like the grape vines served a double purpose as both shade next to the house in the summer as well as a source of food. Driving down the road I was struck by 1. how physically hard life is there. I take for granted being able to go to the nearest grocery store and pick out my food and I have a garden in my backyard because it seemed like a fun thing to do – not because I needed its produce to survive. I can’t imagine walking though an entire corn field and harvesting ears of corn by hand or cutting down the corn stalks with a hand held scyth. And 2. how the people there waste very little. The grape vines were evidence of that. The vines themselves served two purposes, and by growing them on a trellis, the people were able to use other ground area to grow different plants. Driving through the countryside brought home to be how priviledged I am in my everyday life to have the ease of living that I do.

Something else I noticed, and my friend and I talked about it on the way home, is that people stay pretty close to where they are born. They don’t seem to have the cultural ideal where moving away from your hometown is a sign of adulthood and independence like in the USA. One of our tour guides still lived in the same town in Romania where she was born. She mentioned several times during the afternoon how difficult life had been because there was no real source of income. Tourism to the area had been minimal, but was picking up in the last few years, for which she was very grateful because it meant extra money. However, I couldn’t help but wonder why she just didn’t move somewhere with more opportunity, but that didn’t ever seem to be a viable option. She even talked about how her grandaughter was being raised in a Hungarian household, attending a Hungarian school, and learning only the Hungarian language, even though they lived in Romania. (There are many native Hungarians who live in neighboring countries because of the way Hungary’s borders were redrawn and shrunk after WW2). I asked Nora the question of why the family didn’t just move back to Hungary, and she said that this was their home. It was as simple as that. Coming from a place where moving across the state or the country for a job, a relationship, an opportunity, or just because you want to is normal, natural, and sometimes expected, this attitude of sticking it out because it is your hometown is equally impressive and baffling to me.

Transylvania was beautiful, unexpected, and eye-opening and I am very happy I got the chance to visit, even though it was for a short time. Hopefully before this year is up, I will get the chance to go back to the area and the country and see more of it.

Two Months In

I am going to preface writing about my school experience and the differences between the Hungarian and US systems by saying that I am still learning A LOT of information that will affect my views moving forward. What I say in this post might be contradicted in a following post because I learned something new or my views changed. Obviously this whole experience is about changing and growing, so I fully expect following posts to reflect those changes.

Moving on…
 
I’m at the two month mark of teaching here and I can finally remember my schedule – most of the time! J I consider that a win because at the beginning I was checking my agenda every 15 minutes to remember what I had to do next. Things are looking up!

One major difference between Lakeshore and Szegedi is that nothing is electronic here. All of the teachers share 3 computers and 1 copier/printer. Teachers are allowed 50 copies per month. The administration here allowed me to have extra copies, but I feel bad using them when no one else gets extra, so I tend not to. Messages and notices are not emailed – there is a white board in the staff room where these get written, so teachers have to make sure to check the board regularly. At first, when I was told nothing was emailed my inner, email-reliant, American recoiled in horror thinking “how do you ever communicate with one another?” but since everyone is in the same room between classes it is much easier to talk to someone. Actually it is a nice switch from the impersonal email notes to physically walking over to someone’s desk and having a real conversation. I think, at home, technology can isolate us in our classrooms, so I have enjoyed moving away from that.  

Staying in the same vein of nothing is electronic brings me to how I record grades and take attendance. Each class (9B, 10B, 11A, 11B, 11C, you get the idea) has its own record book called a Naplo. Teachers take the Naplo to class with them every time and mark attendance in there. We also have to record what we did that day in that class. The descriptions can be very basic though – I wrote “Halloween Vocab” and “Discuss Fall Break” for two of my latest. At the end of the Naplo is one page dedicated to each kid in the class. On this page there is the kid’s personal information such as address, parent’s names, etc as well as their grades. Grading is MUCH different here than in the US. For starters, I grade less here than I do at home. The general rule of thumb is that per semester each teacher needs to have a grade for how many times a week they see the class, plus one. For example, I see my 10B groups twice a week. That means I should have at least 3 grades per semester for them. However, I have found that most teachers grade more than this, myself included, but it is still not as much as I do at home i.e. I don't have any 5-8 page papers staring at me out of my school bag this year. :) Not all students have to have the same number of grades however. It is perfectly OK for one kid to have 6 grades in the Naplo for a certain class and another student to have 3. That was a big shock to me since at home everyone has the same amount of grades with rare exceptions.

Differing numbers of grades brings me to my next point which is really several points in one. If a student chooses not to do an assignment there are no immediate repercussions for that. If a student opts out of several assignments, the teacher can enter a 1 in the Naplo (grades are on a scale of 1-5, 5 being the best), but one missing assignment does not always equate to a 1 in the Naplo. I’m not sure how I feel about this rule because then I wonder if the kid is really being penalized for not doing assignments and how that factors into their final grade. That is a question I will have to come back to after we figure kids final grades in January. Also, if students do not do assignments it is not the teacher’s job to hold them after class, chase them down, call their parents, or otherwise ensure that the work gets done. The onus for learning is placed much more on the student’s shoulders and not the teacher’s. I do think I like the idea of the students being held more responsible for their own grades than sometimes happens in the US. The current climate of teachers being held solely responsible for a student’s learning absolves that child of any self-responsibility which will be detrimental for them in long-run. (As well as absolves our law makers of seeing the complete and complicated picture of education, but that is a topic for another day)  However, I have seen the difference that a teacher makes by taking the extra step (or two or three) for a child and I can’t discount the idea of the teacher having a responsibility to help his/her students succeed. There has to be a happy medium in there somewhere!  

One of my biggest challenges so far has been figuring out my student’s ability level. I take for granted at home that I will have their ability levels nailed down pretty well within the first week or two. Here though, I am embarrassed to admit it has taken me closer to two months, although to be fair, some classes I haven’t even seen the equivalent of two weeks yet. In the beginning, when the students were still afraid to talk in class, I would ask a question and no one would answer. Then I was left wondering if they didn’t answer because they really didn’t know, if I didn’t make my question clear enough, or if they just didn’t want to speak in English. Thankfully this problem is going away now that they are more comfortable with me, but sometimes I still have to remind them they have to answer me somehow!

The other big struggle I had was trying to figure out the “scope and sequence” of what they already learned and what they should learn by the end of this year. Again, that is something I take for granted since I am very familiar with Lakeshore’s curriculum. I know what my 10th graders read as 9th graders and I know what skills they were supposed to have learned so I know where to start. Here though, it is a whole different story. Not every class has done the same thing and not every class is working on the same material. For example, I have two 10B groups, but one is working in one book and the other group is working in another. I didn’t realize how much I relied on my knowledge of “scope and sequence” at home until I no longer had it here! I spent quite a few weeks wondering if what I was doing was productive or too hard or too easy. I started, then discarded, more ideas and assignments than I can count. I’m sure I will spend the rest of my year doing that to some extent, but those first several weeks of feeling like I was floundering were difficult. To sum it up, it is really hard to go back to being a first year teacher who has a very limited idea of the larger picture of the school/school system/curriculum/students/etc. I think I tried to block out those memories, or at least look at them with rose-colored glasses, so being forced to confront all of those uncertainties and insecurities was tough.

Now, to what I am actually doing in class. As I said last time, my main goal is to get the students more comfortable with communicating in English, so they need to speak a lot in English, which they don’t love. I usually start out each class by going around the room and making the students tell me about their weekend or something that happened since I last saw them. This is pretty easy to do because I don’t see my students everyday so something has usually happened they can talk about. I am working right now on getting them to expand on what they say, which is hard because sometimes they simply don’t know the words to do that. Instead of just saying “I went to my grandmother’s this weekend” I want them to start telling me what they did there and if they enjoyed it. This will obviously be a year-long goal as even my strongest students are not super at verbally expounding on a subject.

Now that I am much more familiar with each class’ and student’s ability level I am designing projects and assignments that will get them speaking for a more real life scenario. I want to work with some students/classes back home so my students in Hungary have an actual audience who will hear them speak. I also am going to have my students do a variety of “presentations.” Anything from mock debates with a classmate, to solo discussions of a topic (random or student chosen), showing the class how to do something (like a verbal Process Essay), sales presentations for a product or place, etc. Really anything that will get them speaking at length in English.

I had a few of my classes do an in-class writing assignment where each kid starts a story by writing one sentence. Then they pass their papers to the next kid who adds one more sentence to the story and on and on until the paper comes back to its original writer with a, hopefully, completed story written on it. What I found when I read these stories was that my students did not have a good grasp of the cohesion of a piece written in English. There were many tense changes and point of view changes and things that just didn’t make any sense. (To be fair, the same thing happens when I do this assignment with my US students as well) Another goal of mine has become to expose them to as many pieces of English text as possible: articles, poems, short stories, short novels (for my advanced group – they want to read The Great Gatsby which I am thrilled about!), newspaper stories, etc. The more they read and hear cohesive English texts, the better they will get at producing their own and finding their own mistakes. This is a challenge for me to find texts that are appropriate skill-wise for the students. I got one article from TheWeek.com and made some adjustments to it to make it a little easier. I thought I was good to go until the first group started reading it and were clearly completely overwhelmed. I had to go back and quickly revamp it again before the next group so that we weren’t spending all of our time deciphering vocab words instead of discussing the main point of the article.

I have also begun playing word games with the students just so they relax and have fun with the English language. The word games impart the idea that language is a puzzle to figure out and that we can figure it out together. I want them to learn that it is OK to make a mistake and we can all learn from each other and still have a good time. I really enjoy the moments when the whole class is working together to solve the puzzle (me included sometimes!) because they are engaged in the language in a positive way.