Quick Trip To Pécs

Monday through Wednesday this week the graduating seniors took their exams. I am unable to help with those exams because I can't speak Hungarian, so I had those three days free. At first I had big plans to go back to Croatia and visit Plitvice National Park (which is still on my Bucket List!!) or fly somewhere for a couple of days, but then I reconsidered. I decided what I really wanted to do was spend some more time getting to know Hungary. Pécs is a city I have wanted to visit for months and a place I have heard only really great things about. Everyone talks about how beautiful it is and it was one of the European Cultural Capitols in 2010 so I knew it had to be nice. Once I looked up some things to see and do there I was even more sure I made the right decision to stay in Hungary for this trip.

The ancient Roman city of Sopianae was the predecessor of modern day Pécs. Sopianae dates back to the 4th Century and two of the historical sites that remain from that time are the Cella Septichora and Early Christian Necropolis. Both of these sites are now UNESCO World Heritage Sites, but when they were in operation they were used by wealthy families to bury their dead. The collision and intersection of different times and religions is always very interesting to me and so the combination of Christian and pagan traditions evident here was intriguing. For example, before Christianity, it was traditional to bury the dead in underground crypts. Christians however, place the memorial above ground. In the Early Christian Necropolis, there are both things. The dead were buried in underground crypts that were lavishly decorated with Christian artwork (remember they were rich people!) and there was also an above-ground mausoleum built. Of course, nothing really remains of the mausoleum's that were above ground, but the underground crypts were still "intact." The Cella Septichora is also thought to be a mausoleum for a wealthy family, although it was never really finished. This building had 7 "lobes" (hence sept). If you imagine a rectangle with 3 protrusions on each long side and 1 at one end, this is what the building looked like.

Above ground mausoleum

Below ground burial chamber. There were two sarcophagi. Note the Christian imagery - Adam and Eve are on the left

Another below ground burial chamber with room for 2 people.

The ceiling of one of the below ground burial chambers. This has a Christogram above the hole and paintings of the people who were buried here on the ceiling

 The Turks also had a strong historical influence on Pécs and there are several mosques in the city which date back to the 1500's. They are no longer operating as mosques, but the Turkish architecture is interesting to see. I have seen this intersection and overlap of religions many times this year. It is really impossible not to when you look at the history of Europe, especially the southern part which was controlled by Muslims for a long period of time. I am always pleased when people of a different faith did not just simply destroy what the previous people built, but re-purposed it. This was especially striking in the Cathedral-Mosque of Cordoba in Spain, which went back and forth between Christian and Muslim during the Crusades. Each time, the "new" religion simply added on without destroying and now we have a wonderful example of beauty and harmony even though it came from a particularly turbulent time in history. Each time I see an example of one religion not destroying something from another, I think about modern day and how too often it seems like people are bent on destroying those who do not believe the same things they do (I'm not just talking religion here!) instead of finding ways to harmonize. I can't help but think that if people 100's and 1000's of years ago could get past their differences and preserve what is beautiful we should be able to do the same.

In addition, Pécs is home to one of the most well-known companies in Hungary: the Zsolnay Porcelain Manufacturing Company. The Zsolnay Factory came up with the glaze that made porcelain frost-proof, thus enabling it to be used outside for decoration. There are many buildings in Hungary, specifically in Budapest, with Zsolnay tiles on their roofs. In Pécs, there is the Zsolnay Museum, which houses a smaller number of porcelain decorations and statues, and the Zsolnay Cultural Quarter, the old site of the factory, where visitors can see several exhibits of Zolnay porcelain throughout the years as well as current workers at the factory decorating the porcelain. Unfortunately, I went to the Zsolnay Factory on a Monday so most of the exhibits were closed, but I did get to see the Pink Exhibit and watch some woman create some pieces.

Zsolnay Fountain in the main square

Close up of Zsolnay Fountain

Around the grounds of the Zsolnay Cultural Quarter

 Two vases from the Zsolnay Pink Exhibit that I thought were beautiful

 More from the Pink Exhibit. There were LOTS of wine jars (left) but also plenty of home goods (right)

Examples of Zsolnay roof tiles

Examples of roof and decorative tiles and artwork

Zsolnay Mausoleum - I couldn't enter because it was closed on Monday

 I think my favorite part of Pécs however was the main square. It was very picturesque and relaxing, even in the afternoon when it was really busy! On Monday, after I was finished with everything I wanted to do, I took my Kindle out to the square, sat in the sunshine, and read and people watched for a while. I know sometimes when I am visiting a new place I have so many things I want to see and do that I forget to actually just soak in the place where I am. Being able to just hang out in the main square of a city that has been around for roughly 1500 years was a good reminder to slow down sometimes and just enjoy the moment. 

Main Square on Monday morning

Main square on Monday morning. The building with the blue/green roof is the Mosque of Pasha Qasim, although it is now a Roman Catholic Church. It was closed for renovations so I couldn't get inside

Looking down the main square

Pécs Theater

Király Street

City Hall - also in the main square